Housing:

     Rabbits should be housed in wire cages to allow for good ventilation, but should be given cardboard or wooden platforms to rest on in order to avoid sores on their feet from the wire. A cage should be 4-5 times the length of your rabbit and tall enough, so they can stand without bumping their heads.  Rabbits should be allowed out of their cages to exercise at least 2-3 times a week.  Indoors, remember that they can chew wire and furniture, and outdoors they are excellent burrowers.  Several sources will discourage housing a bunny outside, but if done, make sure that they are not in direct sunlight as a rabbit can overheat and die very quickly.

Bedding:
    Recycled newspaper products, shredded paper products or straw and hay all make good substrates.  Avoid pine and cedar chips.  The oils and fumes from these can cause respiratory, skin and other illnesses.

Litter Box Training:
    Rabbits do not seek out litter boxes per se, but they do routinely eliminate in the same place and if you place a box in that area they will tend to use it for the most part.  Do not use clumping or corn cob litters.  These can be ingested and lead to obstructions or other gastrointestinal problems.  Periodic red urine is normal, but it would be best to consult your veterinarian to make sure.

Environmental Enrichment:
    Rabbits need things to keep them busy.  Paper towel and toilet paper cardboard rolls are good, as are undyed cardboard boxes.  Hiding food and treats to make the rabbit forage is good, and hard plastic cage toys or additions can be used.  Make sure that the rabbit cannot chew apart the plastic.  Untreated wood items can be used and are ok for the rabbit to destroy and eat.

Diet:
    The most important part of a rabbits diet is fiber, so a good quality hay should be provided at all times.  Alfalfa hay can be used in young rabbits, but adults should be fed Timothy and Prairie or Brome hay. Commercial rabbit pellets should be provided at ¼ cup per 5 pounds of rabbit weight per day. Fresh veggies should be provided at a cup per 5 pounds of rabbit weight.  This should consist mostly of greens:

•     Collard and mustard greens, dandelions, carrots and carrot tops, parsley, snow peas, romaine and red leaf lettuce, (not ice burg) celery and radish tops.

•     Spinach, kale and cabbage should be fed only occasionally as they are high in oxalates that can promote bladder and kidney stones.

    Limit fruits to one Tablespoon per 5 pounds of rabbit weight.

Food items to avoid:
    All human snacks, sugary fruits such as grapes and bananas, breakfast cereals, corn, pasta, ice cream and honey chew sticks.

Veterinary Care:

• Rabbits do not require vaccines, but annual examinations are recommended.  As mentioned before spaying and neutering are advised. Seek immediate veterinary advice if your pet rabbit stops eating or defecating or has diarrhea.  A rabbit's health is closely tied to its intestinal health.
• If your rabbit is grinding his teeth or dropping food it may be painful and need veterinary attention.
• Periodically check the underside of your rabbit for urine scald, fecal impactions, and under the dewlap for moist dermatitis.  If you are not sure how to hold your bunny please consult your veterinarian.  Always make sure to support the rear end of your rabbit.  They can kick and break their own backs.
• Have scaly skin and ears checked immediately as this could be a sign of mites, a very treatable condition.
• A healthy rabbit has a clean hair coat, bright eyes and is interactive.  Sick rabbits look disheveled, close their eyes and keep to themselves.

Common Illnesses:

• Dental disease
• Dermatologic problems
• Gastrointesinal
• Fractures and paralyses
• Respiratory infections
• Tumors
• Urinary tract problems

Helpful links:
    HSUS.org/pets/pet_care

Please contact our veterinarians at Animal Medical Hospital in Saint Petersburg, Florida (FL) at 727-896-7127 for more information.

Information for this handout was obtained from personal experience and from Exotic DVM, VOL 3.1 pp.42-46